Custom Ferrocerium Rod - Afternoon Project

Since this is my first try here, I thought I should start with one of my simple and quick projects. This is a perfect project for a rainy afternoon and relatively simple to make with basic tools. Also if you know someone that loves the outdoors you could use this as a unique and individual gift.

Step 1: Materials

For this build I used:

• Piece of aged oak (Or any other hardwood)

• 6 mm brass tube

• 8 mm x 80 mm Ferrocerium Rod (This is a link to my sponsor gearbest.com who supports me with materials)

• 20 cm piece of fat wood

• Used hacksaw blade

Step 2: Find the middle

Since the end of my oak is rectangular it was relatively easy to find the middle. I used a center punch to mark the middle.

Step 3: More measurements

I used a ruler to determine and mark the length I wanted for the handle. Not that I wanted the ferro rod to be inserted at least 2 cm into the handle.

Step 4: Sawing to length

My Japanese style crosscut saw made this cut very quick and clean. You can use whatever saw or powered saw you have.

Step 5: Prepping the drill bit

Knowing how deep I wanted the hole for the ferro rod, I added 2 cm to account for the thickness of my alignment tool. Some painters tape was wrapped around the drill bit to mark the depth.

Step 6: Drilling

Since I do not have a drill press (which would be favored) I used a small alignment tool to help me with drilling a straight hole. I started with a 6 mm pilot hole and widened it with an 8 mm drill. I used the ferro rod to check if the hole was large enough.

Step 7: Prepping the ferro rod

I wrapped some blue painters tape (which can be removed after use without leaving adhesives on the ferro rod) around the ferro rod. I then inserted the protected end of the rod into the drill chuck of my handheld drill.

Step 8: Removing the protective coating

My idea for this project was to polish the ferro rod to contrast with the brass and wood. I used a few different grits of sandpaper to remove the protective coating. Frequently remove the sanding dust as it contains the ignitable mix from the ferro rod. If you move the sandpaper too quickly you might throw some sparks so please be careful with this step or omit it altogether.

Step 9: More preparations

I used a ruler to make marks at 1 cm and 2 cm from one end. The 2 cm will be the total depth in the handle whilst the 1 cm mark will be some sort of anchor. I used the hacksaw blade to cut small grooves into the 1 cm mark. The idea would be that this should add strengths later when the handle and ferro rod are glued together.

Step 10: Gluing

I used a two-part epoxy for this step. Follow the instructions of your glue and mix the two parts accordingly. Add some glue to the hole in the handle as well as the end of the ferro rod. Insert the rod into the handle and remove any excess glue. I used a clamp to hold everything together whilst the glue was curing.

Step 11: Rough handle shape

I sketched a rough outline for my handle design onto one side of the handle. Next I used my center punch to mark the spot for the lanyard hole. With my 6 mm drill, I drilled a hole though the entire handle.

Step 12: The brass tube

I wrapped some painters tape around a length of brass tube and fixed it in the drill chuck of my electric drill. On slow revolution, I inserted the brass tube into the pilot hole and after it went all the way through I increased speed until the tube moved in and out easily. I used my carpenters pen to mark the total width of the handle to the brass tube

Step 13: Cutting the tube to length

A small tube cutter comes in very handy to cut the tube to length.

Step 14: (More) Gluing

I mixed my epoxy as before and glued the brass tube into the handle. Remove any excess glue from the outside of the handle and the inside of the tube!

Step 15: Shaping

Although I sketched a rough design onto the handle, most of the shaping was done freestyle on the belt sander.

Step 16: A little armor for the rod

Since the belt sander scratched my ferro rod a few times, I decided to give it a little armor. I used some painters tape and the aluminum from a soft drink can and wrapped it around the rod. This protected the ferro rod quite effectively for the rest of the sanding.

Step 17: Rough shaping

I continued to shape the handle to my liking. I didn't want a large handle but yet large enough to be held with gloves. The shape itself is also supposed to improve grip.

Step 18: Sanding

After I was satisfied with the shape I took the handle through the grits. I found it easiest to insert the rod into the chuck of my power drill and sand it with my other hand whilst the tool was spinning slowly.

Step 19: Prepping the fatwood

I chose a nice looking piece of fatwood for this part of the project. I wanted it to be as rectangular as possible whilst still having that rough fatwood look. I used the ferro rod for the measurement. Finally, I cut the fatwood to length with my crosscut saw. The resin will clog up the teeth of your saw so you should clean it after the cut.

Step 20: More tube cutting

I used another piece of 6 mm brass tube and measured the width of the fatwood stick. The tube cutter made quick work of cutting the tube and my power drill was able to create a clean hole near one end of the stick.

Step 21: Prepping the striker

The blade I used for this was of relative poor quality, so if you use a good quality blade you might have to spot anneal the area you want to drill into. Some oil and slow speed drilled a clean hole into the blade in no time. You can see in the third pic how I used the drill to widen the hole just a little until the brass tube fit through it easily.

Step 22: Striker handle

I traced the outline of the blade to the handle wood. The first cut was a cross cut for the length of the handle. The second was in the middle of the handle piece with the grain to create to (almost) equal halves.

Step 23: Sanding

I used my belt sander to sand both handle parts flush until they fit together flush.

Step 24: Pilot hole

I wrapped some painters tape around both halves and tried to drill a straight hole the both pieces (yes, a drill press is on my list of tools to buy). I also fitted the brass tube and checked the alignment of the two pieces.

Step 25: Some markings

I used my carpenters pen to trace the outline of the blade to the inside of one handle piece. And marked a 2 cm length onto the blade. I also sanded the two sides of the blade but forgot to switch the camera on.

Step 26: Bending, shearing & filing

I placed the hacksaw blade into my vice with the 2 cm mark just above the vice grips. I slowly bent the blade back and forth until it broke of with a flat file I filed the breaking point flush and then used a round file to file a half round indentation into the top of the blade. The idea is that this should help guide the ferro rod.

Step 27: Chiseling

A X-Acto knife was used to trace the outline of the blade on the inside of one handle. I used some small chisels to create a bed just deep enough for the hacksaw blade (approx. 1 mm).

Step 28: (Even more) Gluing

With the same epoxy as before I glued the brass tubes and the hacksaw blade in place at the striker and the fatwood stick.

Step 29: Some wood glue

After I wiped off excess epoxy from the striker handle I applied some wood glue and clamped both handle pieces together.

Step 30: Trimming the tube

I was a little sloppy and forgot to cut the brass tube for the striker handle to length. With my hacksaw I had to do this now which wasn't difficult but cutting it to length earlier would have been easier.

Step 31: Handle shaping

Shaping the handle was done on the belt sander again. As for the fatwood stick, I only sanded the brass tube flush and maintained the rough look of the rest.

Step 32: Deburring and sanding

I removed the burr on the brass tube with a counter sink. And sanded the handle as before going through the various sanding grits.

Step 33: A little wax

To bring out the grain of the handles I used a beeswax and linseed oil mix which worked quite nicely.

Step 34: Painting

I rolled up small sheets of paper and inserted it into the lanyard holes of the two handles. I painted the ferro rod and striker with some clear high gloss paint and let it dry over a half opened book.

Step 35: Making some jewelry

A short length of paracord and a double fisherman's bend was all I did to finish this up. I might use some leather string instead of the paracord once I find some that I like. This can now be worn as a fire kit around your neck or attached to your backpack.

Step 36: How to use?

Use the striker to shave of some fine shavings from the fatwood stick. Pile the shavings up and place the ferro rod in the center of this pile. Now use the striker to strike downwards on the ferro rod to create small showers of sparks that will ignite the fatwood shavings.

Use this flame to ignite any tinder you have prepared.