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It all started about a year ago when I was jamming at MonkeyType getting an absolutely horrible dishonorable WPM of 78 on my Chromebook they gave to me from school. So, I was like, "Hey, I should get one of those cool RGB gaming keyboards to type faster!" So, I got one and was like, "Yeah this is cool, " but then I saw a Taeha Types and was like, "I should try this or something." About a few months later I had my first mechanical keyboard. It was a KBD75 with Durock POMs and Cherry stabs and Matcha OEM profile Keycaps. After using that and being amazed, I was not anymore. This was mainly because of scrolling through many hours' worth of r/MechanicalKeyboards, I had come upon a 40% Keyboard. I wanted more 'Thocc', more 'E R G O N O M I C S', and less RGB. So, I began designing the most endgame keyboard of them all: a 40% (more like 50%) keyboard with multiple layers/modes and an ergonomic design to overpower them all.
I then began learning how a modern keyboard operates. Through many hours of YouTube and online forms, I have come to learn that a keyboard operates through a matrix. The way a keyboard matrix works is that instead of checking if there is grounded power running through a single switch, one at a time, it runs a col (or row), and checks if there is a ground in the rows (or col). This means that the circuit does not need an In/Out pin for each key, rendering the whole keyboard more efficient when running matrixes more than 2x2. I had also learned that each key would need a diode running out of it to not cause any confusion when holding multiple keys down. If there is no diode and multiple keypresses are in operation, there may be interference with different rows and columns.
Now that I learned how a keyboard worked, I began learning how to design and fabricate PCBs. I have linked my PCB below in the software section. After obtaining that and an Arduino Mini, with my precursor knowledge on C++ and online forms, I began programing the keyboard. The code is linked in software too.
While making this keyboard, I came across a problem in the PCB, where when designing, I had connected a wrong column and row together. Because of this mess-up, I was forced to move the diode for the M Key to the end of the N Key diode.
With everything in place and ready to go, I plug it in, and here I am- typing this with the Je Sus 49.
Before you make itBefore you make it, make sure you have a solder Iron, a hot glue gun and if you want to use my case design, a 3d printer. For the switches, since I am lazy and almost stupid, I have decided to not make an integrated plate, meaning for this project, you are stuck with 5 pin switches. :kekw:
Also, warning for most users: If you are planning to use this for everyday use, I advise you not, as because of poor optimization, the keyboard can stutter from time to time. I advise you only go through the build if you are up for experimentation and or are willing to throw away your money.
How to make itYou are first going to want to order the PCB. This can be from any preferred fabricator. For this project, I used Jlcpcb, but I have heard good things about Pcbway, another good company. Once the orders are shipped and you have the PCBs, I will need to separate them. To separate each PCB from another, you can snap it with pliers. Just make sure when doing this to leave a somewhat strait break. Now with the PCBs in hand, you will need to solder the components on.
The first thing you need to solder are the diodes. When soldering them into their positions (D**), make sure the black part at the end of the diode, not the wire is on the circular side of the cutout. NOT the square cutout. You will also need to solder the bulk of the diode on the bottom size, or the side without the D** symbols. To keep the diodes in place while soldering, you can bend the wires outwards and cut them after soldering the joints.
Once you are done with soldering the diodes, you will need to solder the switches and screw in the stabilizers. For the stabilizers, make sure the wire is facing south towards you. For soldering the switches, do like you would on a normal build.
After being done with step 3, you will solder in the headers. The headers MUST be right angle breakaway headers with a 2.54mm pitch, or else they will not fit like they are supposed to. Like the diodes, place them on the bottom of the PCB, not the top. This step does not include the Arduino holder board, or the smallest PCB. For that, you will use female breakaway headers for the middle part, and normal breakaway headers for the outside pinholes.
Optional, but recommended... Print the uploaded .stl files on a 3d printer, and using hot glue, connect one and two together, and three and four separately.
Glue the PCBs in the case, because I was too lazy to add screw holes for you also :kekw:
Place keycaps, and Wala! You have something which I might have completely screwed up for you! If you have just finished all the steps and successfully created a working keyboard; good for you. If it does not work, I did tell you in the beginning that making this project will only cause chaos and because of this, is only good of you want to throw away money, but if you still want to recover the build, you can ask questions on this. Thanks for reading through.
Images of my build: https://imgur.com/a/Mef4nJg
heres a video of me typing nothing: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AcliDTR8SZzp95RXLky1kVAMtjV7TLt3/view?usp=sharing
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