Published October 17, 2021 © MIT

Naruto Themed Night Lamp

Made a Naruto themed night lamp-based around ATtiny13A MCU and custom PCB.

BeginnerFull instructions provided4 hours527

Things used in this project

Hardware components

Microchip attiny13A

PCBWay Custom PCB

Arduino Nano R3

Software apps and online services

Arduino IDE

Autodesk Fusion

Hand tools and fabrication machines

3D Printer (generic)

Story

Hey guys what's up.

Here's something cool, a Naruto-themed Desk light that is made mainly from PCB.

The heart of this project is an Attiy13A that drives some 0603 LEDs which are on the backside of the Face.

The Head part is detachable or swappable, which means we can prepare two or more Naruto Heads and add different color LEDs on the backside, then we can swap them for whatever light color we need.

I've modeled Naruto's face in my PCBCad software and then send it to PCBway for samples.

After receiving the PCBs, I assembled the whole board and then added code to it and that is pretty much how I made this project.

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In this post, I'm gonna show you guys how I prepared this project in few easy ways.

so let's get started!

Material Required

Custom PCB
Attiny13A
10K Resistor
AO3400 Mosfet
LEDs 0603
switch
USB Port
3D Printed Parts
Li-ion cell
Arduino as ISP Setup

Basic idea

So the idea here was to make a Naruto-Themed PCB Art kinda stuff.

To make this setup somewhat useful, I added LEDs on the backside so we can turn them ON whenever we like to use this setup as a dope Night Lamp.

As for its working, Attiny13A is being used as the main MCU here. Attiny13 Controls the gate of mosfet which turns ON or OFF LEDs.

The state of Mosfet is changed by pressing the button in a sequence.

The first tap will put the setup in a FADE Sequence
The second tap will keep this setup in HIGH Mode
The third tap will reduce the Brightness by 50%
The fourth tap will turn OFF the setup

Now let's talk about the PCB Designing process of this board.

PCB design process

So as you can see here, this PCB is not exactly normal.

The shape of this PCB is pretty different than the traditional Square or circular PCBs.

At the TOP side, the Head is there and this rectangular part is the Driver board that will hold the head and keep the other components like MCU, USB Socket, Switch on it.

Also, this PCB is a breakaway PCB, which means we have to separate the Head portion and Base portion from each other by cutting this section with a cutter.

SCHEMATIC

I placed all the LEDs with the Mosfet setup and a CON3 Header on the head.

On Base, I placed all the Important stuff like Attiny13A, USB Port Switch, and a CON3 Header pin.

The plan here is to add Male and female Header Pins on both of the CON3 Pin.

By doing this, we can now remove or place the head on the base without any permanent solder joint.

This idea is pretty cool as we can now model a bunch of stuff from different movies or anime, we just need to place LEDs on them with a mosfet setup and when we connect them to base, they will work.

After finalizing the schematic and then making a perfect PCB, I send the Gerber data to a PCB Manufacturer for samples.

Getting PCBs from PCBWAY

I uploaded the Gerber data to the PCBWAY's quote page, I wanted to do something different this time so I choose the yellow solder mask, I generally get PCBs in white solder masks but this time I choose a yellow one as naruto hair is Yellow so getting yellow solder mask makes a lot more sense.

I received PCBs in a week and the overall PCB quality was great, which was expected as PCBWAY always offers quality stuff,

I've been using their PCB service for a year now, and my review of them is still the same, quality of PCBs is always high which is a plus point.

PCBWAY, well done you guys!

Check out PCBWAY for getting great PCB service at a less cost.

Assembly process

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Next is the Assembly process of this Badge, which includes -

solder paste dispensing process
pick & place process
hotplate reflow
and THT components.

There is a total of 2 PCBs in this project and both have SMD and THT components.

first is the solder paste dispensing process

Solder paste

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First, we place solder paste on each components pad, I'm using a generic solder paste (SN-Pb Ratio 63-37) with a solder paste dispensing syringe.

we first added the solder paste to the head and then on the base PCB.

Pick & Place

Then we add components to their assigned place one by one. You could see the schematic for the precise location of each component.

HotplateReflow

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After adding components to their location, we carefully lift the PCB and put it on an SMT hotplate.

I made this Hotplate especially for making projects like these which require SMD soldering. hotplate available in the market were not exactly cheap so I made a minimal version of that which you can check out from here- https://www.hackster.io/Arnov_Sharma_makes/diy-smt-hotplate-project-8157a5

But anyway, the hotplate heats the PCB from below up to the solder paste melting temp, as soon as the PCB reaches that temp, solder paste melts and all the components get soldered to their pads,

We carefully lift this PCB and try not to shake it as the solder paste is still melted and components might stray from their location if moved too much.

we lift the PCB and then place it on a cooler surface for a little bit, to cool down the heat of PCB.

THT components

we add remaining THT components like the USB port, header pins, coin cell holder, and the power-off switch.

PCB is completed but it doesn't work just yet as we still have to flash the attiny13A to fill it up with some sweet sweet lines of code.

Code and flashing process

As for the Flashing Process, we cannot directly program ATTINY13 through any USB, I mean there's a method for programming the Attiny straight from the USB port but I'm not doing that.

Instead, I'll be using the ISP flashing method which will utilize the SPI Pins of attiny13 to burn the bootloader in it and then Flash.

Wire the Attiny85 with Arduino in this way.

Vcc to Vcc
GND to GND
D10-RST of attiny
D11- MOSI
D12- MISO
D13- SCK

(also right after uploading ISP Sketch to your Arduino, do not forget to add a 10uf Cap between Reset and GND pins of your Arduino board)

Instead of using an Arduino UNO and a breadboard for this job, I will use my DIY Attiny Programmer which I made for flashing the Attiny or Atmega MCUs.

which you can check out from here for more details-

https://www.hackster.io/Arnov_Sharma_makes/multiple-attiny85-13a-programmer-84adf8

Basically, we put the Attiny13 in the dip socket and flash the MCU with Arduino IDE.

3D printed body

This setup required a Box like Base body that can hold the Li-ion Cell inside and on the top side the circuit can be placed.

so I modeled this Body in fusion360 and then 3D Printed it on my Ender 3.

All the important print settings and STL files for this project can be downloaded from this project's page.

but anyway, after getting the parts 3D Printed, all that was left to do was the final assembly.

Final Assembly

Final assembly includes the following processes,

First, we add Li-ion Cell inside the Base body and then add the circuit on it with two M3 Truss head screws
Then we connect the battery onto the circuit with provided JST connector.
In the end, we add Base Lid with four M2 Truss head screws, and the assembly is completed.

Now we can place the head on the base body and press the switch for initializing the whole setup.

Result

We press the button and the LED sequence gets started, we press the button again and LEDs go into another mode. we press the button again and the LED then goes into another mode and this process will go on and on.

In the end, the result will look something like this!

Addon

Also, we can prepare a Sasuke head with the same schematic, we can swap heads depending on which Night Lamp we need, naruto or Sasuke.

This is it for today, Leave a comment if you guys need any help, and I'll be back with another project soon!

Also, thanks PCBWay for supporting this project, Check out PCBWAY for getting high-quality PCB Service at a less and economic cost.

Peace out!

Schematics

Code

code

int switchPin = 4;     //4         
int led1Pin = 0;        //0

int brightness = 0;    // how bright the LED is
int fadeAmount = 5;    // how many points to fade the LED by


int val;                        
int val2;                       
int buttonState;                
int Mode ; //= 0;              

void setup() 
{
pinMode(switchPin, INPUT_PULLUP);    
pinMode(led1Pin, OUTPUT);
buttonState = digitalRead(switchPin); 
}

void loop(){
 
      val = digitalRead(switchPin);      // read input value and store it in val
      delay(10);                         // 10 milliseconds is a good amount of time
      val2 = digitalRead(switchPin);     // read the input again to check for bounces
      
      if (val == val2) {                 // make sure we got 2 consistant readings!
        if (val != buttonState) {          // the button state has changed!
          if (val == HIGH) {                // check if the button is pressed
            if (Mode == 0) {         
              Mode = 1;               
            } else {
                if (Mode == 1) {       
                Mode = 2;           
            } else {
                if (Mode == 2) {     
                Mode = 3;           
            } else {
                if (Mode == 3) {     
                Mode = 0;  
           }
          }
         }
        }
       }
        }
          
        buttonState = val;                 // save the new state in our variable
      }

      // Now do whatever the lightMode indicates
      if (Mode == 0) {                       // FLIP FLOP
        digitalWrite(led1Pin, LOW);
      }

      if (Mode == 1) {
        analogWrite(led1Pin, brightness);
        brightness = brightness + fadeAmount;
        if (brightness <= 0 || brightness >= 255) {
    fadeAmount = -fadeAmount;
  }
      }

      if (Mode == 2) {
        digitalWrite(led1Pin, HIGH);
        delay(50);
        
      }
      if (Mode == 3) {
        analogWrite(led1Pin, 100);
        delay(50);
}
}

Credits

Arnov Sharma

308 projects • 306 followers

Just your average MAKER

Naruto Themed Night Lamp

Things used in this project

Hardware components

Software apps and online services

Hand tools and fabrication machines

Story

Material Required

Basic idea

PCB design process

SCHEMATIC

Getting PCBs from PCBWAY

Assembly process

Code and flashing process

3D printed body

Final Assembly

Result

Addon

Custom parts and enclosures

body

Lid

Schematics

sch

Code

code

Credits

Arnov Sharma

Comments

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Naruto Themed Night Lamp

Naruto Themed Night Lamp

Things used in this project

Hardware components

Software apps and online services

Hand tools and fabrication machines

Story

Material Required

Basic idea

PCB design process

SCHEMATIC

Getting PCBs from PCBWAY

Assembly process

Code and flashing process

3D printed body

Final Assembly

Result

Addon

Custom parts and enclosures

body

Lid

Schematics

sch

Code

code

Credits

Arnov Sharma

Comments

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